Air Intake - My air box was all beat up so I switched it out for a free flow intake. The tube is from a 95-98 Neon. I kept the bottom part of the original intake so that the cold, ram air setup was still in place and blowing on the new filter. I also kept all of the original emissions equipment with a set of hose reducers.

Axle Breathers - I extended the breather tubes higher than I would ever take the thing and added a fuel filter to the end of each.

Backup Lights - The 3" Body Lift provides the perfect amount of room to add backup lights. If you drill out the holes in the frame, the Harbor Freight $9 fog lights fit perfectly and its six inches to the wiring.

Body Foam - The rear body channel, which is held up by the body mounts, is pretty rusted. I sprayed expanding foam into it hoping that would provide a strengthening effect. It did. The rear is very solid now. Will it stop the rust? I doubt it.

Body Lift - The 3" body lift is easier to install when you're replacing the body mounts too. I really like the clearance it gives you to work on the actual vehicle.

Body Mounts - Five of the ten body mounts were rotted completely through. The only reason the vehicle was drivable at all was because the second and fourth rows were just fine. The first, third, and fifth rows were entirely useless. On a side note, I hate rivets.

Brakes - I replaced every single brake line, relocated the front lines further down the coil bucket, and routed new lines for the 8.8.

Electric Fan - I added an electric fan as a novelty since my fan clutch was broken and the plastic fan itself needed to be replaced as well.

Fender Flares - This was a lot of work but well worth the effort. First I cut off the factory metal flares and the attached parts of the inner fenders. Then I put lawn edging around the cutout and secured it to the body and remaining inner fender with self-drilling screws. After letting the lawn edging sit a few weeks to remember its shape, I put flush mount Flexy Flares in between the edging and body and reused the same screws. When its time to replace the flares I'm going to replace the 2.25" ones with the 4" ones.

Front Axle - After having a LOT of trouble with the Detroit Locker I decided to start over with a fresh D35 case and an ARB. The ARB went in like butter.

High Output Alternator - Installing the 200A 3G alternator required upgrading to 2 gauge wiring. I wired the 3G connecters in such a way as to keep backwards compatibility to the 2G alternator. This way I can carry it as a spare.

Interior Switches - I found the perfect place to add six switches.

James Duff Lift - I got a great deal on an old style James Duff Stage III 3" lift and four black steel wagon wheels on eBay for $1K. No one bid on it three times. Finally I decided I couldn't pass it up. I guess people were afraid it would be incomplete. It actually came with everything you need down to the last detail.

Miscellaneous - Other interesting tidbits.

Mud Flaps - The first design used the original fender. Mine wobbled even with the extra support because off all the rust. If the rear were in better shape this wouldn't have been a problem. The second design was incorporated into the custom bumper.

No Axles - Various angles of the BII without any axles.

Parking Brake - Between the body lift and the 8.8 swap, the parking brake needed a number of changes.

Post-Lift - The first trip was an experience. The steering was very scary. The Detroit was a pleasant surprise. The new suspension is an improvement over stock even without the swaybars. Overall, I'm very pleased with the outcome.

Power Steering Cooler - When I swapped in the 4.0L auto radiator I had an extra chamber that would normally be used to cool the auto transmission. I decided to use it for the power steering which gets very hot. I also added an inline filter.

Pre-Lift - I didn't have any good pictures before I tore into it but here you can see how badly the rear was sagging.

Radiator Support - My radiator support was rusted so bad it wasn't even doing anything. I cut it out and made my own. I went through three different designs on the mounting until I ended up with something that looks just like the body mounts.

Rear Axle - For strength I swapped in a Ford 8.8 from a 91 Explorer. I then converted the drums to discs, regeared to 5.13, installed a Detroit Locker, welded new spring perches on top of the axle tubes, and added shock mounts above the axle line for more clearance. The bedlining didn't go too well as it reacted with the primer and made a jelly. Still, after a week of dry time, its better than the bare metal.

Rear Bumper - I built a new rear bumper when the stock one was too high off the ground to pass inspection. The entire bumper is welded to the D-ring mounts which double as the frame mounting. I copied a Reese's hitch for light towing and used a hitch pin to secure the tire carrier. It turned out the hitch pin let the carrier wobble and made an awful lot of noice. So I upgraded to a vertical latch clamp. The hinge is a 1 3/16" trailer hub and spindle. I later added a Hi-Lift Jack carrier. The extra space on the bar is for a future jerry can carrier. A backup light is also coming soon.

Rear Shock Mount - I welded the 8.8 shock mounts two inches too high and wound up with hardly any shock travel. The shocks bottomed out on everything. Also, the raised mounts lost three inches from stock for a total of five lost inches in mounting space. I removed the stock brackets and made my own extended dual shock bracket.

Roof Rack - The cheap BVG roof rack with extension and light brackets was just about custom made for the Bronco II. I used an extra set of cross bars for strength.

Tarp System - I originally bought the BII to carry deer. Since the interior was so clean I didn't want to dirty it with blood and hair. So I made this tarp system out of a 20'x15' tarp I folded over. You can spray a hose from the front doors all the way out the back now.

Tranny Crossmember - The lift kit I bought off eBay came with the wrong transmission crossmember. The holes weren't spaced right and the bushings were so tall the driveshaft would have hit the crossbar.